Kennebunkport

My first whale-watching trip was made while visiting our friends the Reddels in New Hampshire 23 years ago; it was also the most productive. In theory, the further up the coast you go, the more whales you see, so Kennebunkport is at a disadvantage compared to Eastport, Boothbay or Bar Harbour. Here, the St George's Bank lies about 20 miles off the coast and the deep water lies beyond that. It is a long steam out to where the whales play.

We had a perfect day in terms of weather. Our ship cruised out of the fashionable, yachty water front and past a promontory where President George Bush Senior was holding a press conference at his summer home. We kept ourselves occupied by watching recreational boats for a while, but as soon as we reached deep water we saw an endless fleet of commercial fishing boats. In turn these attracted seabirds such as shearwaters and kittiwakes.

Our first cetacean was a little harbour porpoise. I used to see these in Southampton water when I was learning to sail in the 1960s. It was soon followed by a pod of white-sided dolphins. (The only ones I have ever seen). Scanning the boats we started to see (or imagine?) lumpy waves that faded into the gathering fog banks. Then there was an audible Phush! near the boat as a large cow humpback exhaled and then sounded in front of us. Everyone jostled to the bow to get a view and we were rewarded by seeing her calf rocket straight into the air. For an hour, mother and calf played happily around the boats until we moved off. In the clear water we could see the long bright white flukes of both animals as they went under the boat, surfaced and even waved us goodbye.

We saw more Humpbacks, a Fin and a Minke whale and had a great day out with our friends. We both had our new babies along and they seemed to enjoy the trip too, mostly by sleeping.

I also think that day marked my first attempt to eat a lobster. It was at a restaurant called "The Captain's Table" where you were served a whole lobster on a cardboard plate with melted butter and coleslaw on the side. I had to wear a ridiculous plastic bib that featured a vivid red lobster. I loved every minute of it.

'Bye!